Before we actually start with our set up, we check the following primary measurements: action at the 12th fret, neck relief, action at the 1st fret.

Check 1: Action at 12th fret

Tune the guitar in Standard E tuning. Use a string action gauge or precision metal ruler to individually measure the string height at the 12th fret for all 6 strings. The distance you’re measuring lies between the bottom of the string and top of the fret. String heights are normally:

1st string (high e): 1,0 – 2,0 mm (recommended: 1,8 mm)

6th string (low E): 1,5 – 2,5 mm (recommended: 2,0 mm)

Check 2: Neck relief

It’s important to determine if the neck has forward (concave) or backward (convex) bow. Along with the saddle height, the neck relief also affects the guitar’s action. Here’s the process:

With the capo clamped on top of the 1st fret, hold down the 6th (low E) string at the last fret.

Using your action gauge or metal ruler, measure the greatest distance between the bottom of the 6th string and the top of the frets. The largest gap typically occurs in the middle of the neck at the 7th fret and should be around 0,5 mm.

Check 3: Action at the 1st fret

Playability is affected by how high the strings sit in their nut slots. The guitar feels stiff when the strings are too high. Conversely, if they sit too low, you’ll get a buzz when you play the open strings.

Remove the capo and measure the distance between the bottom of the 1st (high e) string and the top of the 1st fret. When you press the string at the 3rd fret, a normal sheet of paper or a thin pick should fit between the 1st fret and the string.

Repeat the process for all 6 strings. When the guitar is set up properly, the gap should incrementally increase from the 1st to the 6th string to accommodate their progressively thicker gauges.

SETUP

Step 1: Adjust the truss rod

Place a capo on top of the 1st fret and then hold down the 6th string (low E) at the fret closest to the body of the guitar. Doing this will allow you to see whether there is a gap between the strings and the neck of the guitar.

Tighten the truss rod nut if there is a large gap. Fit the wrench around the end of the truss rod and turn it clockwise (you look down the neck towards the body) a quarter turn to tighten it. This will reduce the bend in the neck and bring the strings closer to the neck in between the frets you’re holding down.

Loosen the truss rod nut if there is no gap in the neck. Fit the truss rod wrench around the end of the truss rod and turn it counterclockwise a quarter of a turn to loosen the tension in the neck. This should bring your strings off the neck of the guitar and will give them some space. Keep in mind that there should be just a small amount of space between the strings and neck.

Go slowly, making very small adjustments (1/8 to 1/4 a turn at a time). Check the results each time you move the rod. The neck should have small backward (convex) bow and the bigger distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at the 7th fret should be around 0,5 mm.

Step 2: Adjust saddle height

Next, set the action by adjusting the height of the saddles. Saddle screws can vary, so use the wrench that came with your guitar. Tune the guitar to pitch. 

Measure the action at the 12th fret using an action gauge or precision metal ruler as described above.

Beginning with the 1st string, turn the height adjustment screws located on either side of the saddle to raise or lower the string to your preferred height.

For our Helman fretboard with a radius of 9.5" our official specs are 1,6 mm for both the 1st and 6th strings. However, string height is personal, so this measurement will vary according to your technique and string gauge. After each adjustment, retune the string you’re working on and re-measure the action at the 12th fret.

Repeat this process for each string until you have the action where you want it. The goal is to keep an even arc across all 6 strings that matches the radius of your particular fretboard. 

Step 3: Adjust action at the nut 

(we would actually recommend to go to an official repair shop for this particular step)

After setting the saddle height across all 6 strings, shift your attention to the nut. It’s important that the string height is correct here too. When the action is too high at the nut, the strings will go sharp when you fret them and the guitar will be hard to play.

Beginning with the 1st string, measure the distance between the bottom of the string and the top of the 1st fret. When you press the string at the 3rd fret, a normal sheet of paper or a thin pick should fit between the 1st fret and the string. The gap should get a bit bigger going towards the 6th string. Each thicker string should be slightly higher than the one before it.

To lower a string, you’ll need to cut its slot deeper in the nut. For this job, use a correctly sized nut-slotting file. Slowly cut the slot, paying very close attention to the angle of the nut file. It should match the descending angle of the string, from the face of the nut to the post where the string attaches. 

If you cut too shallow or too steep of an angle, the string won’t seat properly in the nut, causing both tuning and sonic problems.

Make sure the string doesn’t stick in the slot. It should move in and out freely without binding. If it sticks, gently roll your file from side to side in the slot to open it up. 

After a few passes with the file, place the string back into the slot, retune, and again measure the action at the 1st fret.

Repeat this process for each string with the proper nut file for each gauge.

Step 4: Adjust pickup height

Pickup height is commonly overlooked during a setup. If the pickups are adjusted too close to the strings, they can cause string rattle and intonation problems. If the pickups are too low, you’ll end up with a weak signal.

Tune your guitar and place it on a table or a workbench with a towel or blanket underneath. Fret the 1st string at the last fret. We measure pickup height from the top of the pickup (not pole piece) to the bottom of the string while the string is pressed against the highest fret

In general, this distance should be around 1.6 mm. Our own preference is to start with 2.4 mm on the bass side and 1.6 mm on the treble side for both bridge and neck pickups.

Step 5: Adjust intonation

Once the pickups are at proper height, it’s time to adjust intonation. 

This final setup step involves moving the saddles closer to or further away from the nut. The saddle-intonation adjustment screw is located at the rear of the bridge. 

Using a small screwdriver, move each saddle forward (by turning the screw counterclockwise) or backward (clockwise) to shorten or lengthen the vibrating portion of the string.

Bring each string to pitch. Starting with the 1st string, play the 12th-fret harmonic and then fret and pluck the same note. If the fretted note is sharp compared to the harmonic, move the saddle away from the neck. Conversely, if the fretted note is flat, move the saddle toward the neck. Make small adjustments - and retune the harmonic each time you make an adjustment. Continue comparing the 12th-fret note to its reference harmonic until the former matches the latter.

Repeat this process until all the 12th-fret notes on all 6 strings match their corresponding 12th-fret harmonics.

At this point, the setup of your Helman guitar is complete. We would recommend to check all measures from time to time.